I started my worm bin about a month ago and it's going really well so far. I'm feeding them lightly about twice a week and they're quite active. Someone suggested that I give them a bit of wheat bran from time to time (I have a horse and two donkeys and I feed wheat bran to the horse) and they really seem to like that. I think I'm about ready to consider adding a second bin and I'm wondering how others who have one of these multiple bin systems go about deciding when to add. The manufacturer said when the level of bedding/food/compost in the working bin drops by 3 1/2 - 4 inches but in another place the same manufacturer says to wait until the worms have pretty much digested everything in the working bin before adding another one. Suggestions anyone?
I do know that with the can-O-Worms It has to be filled up to at least the ridge so that the upper tray sits on compost and not the ridge otherwise the worms cannot crawl up.
Matthew how about if you are using rubbermaid worm bins? Now once my bins are pretty low on paper can I add another bin inside the worm bin filled with fresh bedding and food and the worms will crawl up the holes I drilled in the 2nd bin if so how big of holes do I need to drill so they can squeeze through will they sense some new food and bedding and start migrating up the air holes in the bottom of the second bin?
I do not see any reason why that should not work. Looks like the holes in the other tray type worm bins are around a 1/4 inch. The red wiggler worms can certainly crawl through a small hole and generally migrate upwards.
I checked my month old bin and I found the bedding has turned brown but still have large clumbs in it. should I stop feeding them and let them finsh there work and clean up the clumps of bedding and let them move to the upper bin. I have WF 360
Yes they will move to the upper tray when you are feeding the upper tray only. I think this is the recommendation. They will finish eating the remaining food in the lower trays before moving up.
Wondering about how long it takes the worms to move to the upper bin and how do you keep the top bin from crushing the lower bin? Is there a way to separate the worms from castings with a screen? I have a rubbermaid bin and soon will need to move worms out and into new home. First time worm bin for me.
I have an 8-tray worm factory 360, 12 stacked Rubbermaid bins, and (2) 4'x8'x11" worm bins so far. I've found it not at all critical as to when you add the next trays in the stacking systems. You want them to rest on the ridges and NOT directly on the compost if you have lots of trays like me because they will be very heavy and compact the compost in the lower trays otherwise. That will reduce O2 and possibly crush worms. I actually started all 8 of my trays at once because I had lots of waste and didn't want to do it one at a time or I would've never had them all going at once.
The Rubbermaid bins that I have consist of (3) 10-gallon roughneck totes each. The bottom has no holes in it to catch any leachate from overwatering. It's usually dry. The second one sits on bricks that are inside the first. This is to allow air circulation. The second one has 1/8" holes all around the sides and bottom. The lid of this second one has 1/4" holes that match up with the 1/4" holes on the bottom of the third tote. They crawl through often. The third one sits on top of the lid so I don't have too much weight on the second. The third bin only has 1/8" holes on the lid and along the sides.
The wooden bins are the best. I live in phoenix and have them in my garage. They are built out of redwood con comm with a HempShield coating to help with decay resistance. They are covered with landscaping cloth.
I explained a little about how to build your Rubbermaid bin to avoid crushing the lower ones in my above post. Basically set the top ones on the lower lids, not directly inside the lower ones. Hope this helps!!